Vinyl, Heat -n-Bond and Craft Foam Armor

Introduction:

This way of making armor pieces if useful for when movement or flexibility in the armor is need.  Good for hip pieces, neck or arm bands, belts, or other small armor bits.  I haven’t hardened my armor using this technique just because I needed the pieces to be flexible, but I would imagine it would be possible.  Also, DO NOT SHAPE YOUR ARMOR PRIOR TO ADDING THE VINYL.  Any shaping will be lost due to using high heat in this process.  My advice would be to cover the pieces in vinyl and then shape.

Safety:

None really.  Just make sure you cover your surfaces and beware of the hight heat.

Materials:

  • - Craft Foam/Foamies  (2mm size is best if you need flexibility.)
  • - Heat-n-bond (No Sew type as it is stronger)
  • - Vinyl (Stretch is better)
  • - Scissors
  • - Iron
  • - Hot glue
  • - Paper
  • - Pressing cloth or scrap fabric

Where to Buy:

  • Michael’s
  • Joann’s

TIP! I would advise you do a test of this process with your vinyl BEFORE you dig in.  Some vinyls don’t take direct heat or even heat-n-bond well so it is best to test it first!

Getting Started:

1. Cut out your pattern for your armor piece out of paper.  Make sure it is the final size/shape that you need it to be.

2. Cut out a piece of heat-n-bond and craft foam a bit larger then your pattern piece.  Doesn’t need to be exact shape, just make sure that there will be some over hang.

3. Following the directions on the package for the heat-n-bond, apply the heat-n-bond to the craft foam.  TIP: Don’t use steam while ironing.  It might cause warping or bubbles in the heat-n-bond.  If you do get bubbles, pop them with a pin and then re-iron them down.

4. Use your paper pattern, and trace/cut out your piece from the craft foam with the heat and bond on it.  Cut out your piece.

5. Cut out your vinyl, again larger the your piece.  Make sure there is about 1/2″ to 1″ over hang of vinyl.  You will be using this over hang to cover the edges of the foam so make sure there is enough to wrap over the edge and glue down on the back.

6. Remove the paper backing.  Place your vinyl on top of your heat-n-boned piece of craft foam with the wrong side of the vinyl touching the heat-n-bonded side of the craft foam.

Remove paper backing from your piece to reveal the heat-n-bond

Place the heat-n-bond side, or shiny side, down on the wrong side of the vinyl.

Wrong side of vinyl.

7. Flip over both the craft foam and vinyl TOGETHER so the right side of the vinyl is UP and the craft foam is below the vinyl as instructed in the previous step.  Using a pressing cloth (I usually use muslim) iron down the vinyl to the craft foam.  You don’t need to press to hard, but it is best to start in the center and then work your way out the the edges.  Work slowly and press firmly to help prevent bubbles in your vinyl.  Set aside and let cool.

Gold vinyl with piece underneath.

Muslin is used as a pressing cloth to prevent melting the vinyl

Press on a low to medium setting with no steam.  Doing a test is best before hand is a good idea to see how your vinyl reacts to direct heat.

8. Trim around your piece so you have about 1/2″ to 1″ around the edge.

Trimmed piece.

9. Fold over the edges and hot glue down.  TIP! for round edges put your glue down and work the vinyl over the edge from the front.  This will help you see if you have any weird edges.  TIP! For inside corners, clip them as you would do in sewing.  When you are folding it over you will see where the tension is, so a little clip into the vinyl will help relieve that tension.  Be careful and don’t clip too far or too much otherwise your craft foam will show through.

9. Attach to your costume via E6000, sewing, or other various means.  Good Job!

If you have any questions or problems feel free to contact me!

3 Comments

  1. Thanks for the great guide – Especially the pictures help to understand it a lot better. I have to check out the other articles, now I want to know how the whole armor is done.

  2. I noticed for simple shaping that after ironing the vinyl on then letting it cool into the shape you want is helpful. :) For my Umi waist armour I let the pieces cool curled up and it turned out well. :)

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